My Accidental Journey to Paris, Portugal and Beyond … It’s A Small World After All

ticket passportMost of my life has not been planned, it has simply fallen into place. When I was fresh out of college and living in the San Francisco Bay area, I wanted to visit a friend in Chicago. I called the airline to ask about airfare, and was very disappointed (even shocked), to learn that prices had skyrocketed in the last year since I’d left school. “Well,” I asked the ticket agent, in a tone of annoyance, “How much does it cost to go to Paris?!”

I really had no intention of going to Paris. It was mostly a rhetorical question, because in my mind I was thinking that the airfare to Chicago was so expensive, it felt like I should be getting more for my money. But before I could tell the agent that I wasn’t serious, she said, “Please hold, I’ll connect you to the International desk.” The next thing I knew, I was talking to the International desk, and too embarrassed to tell her that I didn’t really want to go to Paris. I picked some dates figuring I’d say “No, thank you”, once she quoted me the fare. “Well, we’ve got a sale right now,” she said. “If you leave before March 15th, you can fly round-trip for $450.” My jaw dropped open. Really?! For $100 more than the cost of going to Chicago, I could go to Paris! The wheels in my mind began to spin… my college roommate lived in Paris, and France was “next door” to Spain, and a “little way” from Portugal (I’ve learned to read maps since then, but at the time I was kinda clueless). I’d never been across the ocean before, and I’d been planning to take a trip anyway, right? Who cares if it’s Paris instead of Chicago? A couple months later I was on my way!

paris postcard pink
Upon arriving in Paris, I learned that most people didn’t understand me in spite of the fact that I spoke French. I became incredibly self-conscious about speaking, and tried to say as little as possible in public. At the home of my friend Caroline in Paris, we had three-way conversations. She spoke to her boyfriend Esteban (who was actually from Argentina) in French. I spoke to him in Spanish. And when I spoke to Caroline, I spoke English. You’d think it was a comedy of errors, but it actually worked out rather well. I took a couple days to get over my jet lag, visited a few museums, drank incredibly expensive coffee, got in trouble for squeezing produce at the grocery store (apparently that’s just not done in France), and then booked myself a cabin on the train to Portugal.

I’ll never forget my train ride. The trip was 25hrs from Paris to Portugal, and there was only one other person in my cabin. She was an older woman from Toulouse, and she didn’t speak any language other than French! I learned two incredibly important things on that train ride. 1) Non-Parisians are generally very kind people. 2) When traveling alone, you can keep silent and be incredibly bored. Or you can open your mouth at the risk of making a fool of yourself, and you’ll probably have a great time and make friends.

cathedral-toulouseI spoke for hours on end with the lady from Toulouse. She told me about her city, its saints and pilgrimages. I asked her about life in the countryside vs. life in the city. I determined that Parisians aren’t purposefully pretending they don’t understand you. They’re just very impatient and usually can’t be bothered to make an effort if your French is less than perfect. My 4 years of high school French had paid off. I could make myself understood and I could understand. I was happy!

I arrived in Portugal, in the city of Coimbra. It’s a beautiful, historic city, situated along the river and very hilly. It’s not very big, but it’s a college town, so it’s full of life. I was in my early 20s, so I fit right in. And when my hostel kicked me out at midday (they do that so they can clean the rooms undisturbed), I found a big window with a bench-like window sill at the university and I took a nap!

Coimbra004

Mundo dos Pequenitos in Coimbra

In Coimbra, I discovered one of the coolest places in Portugal. It is a place that has inspired me, and perhaps even defined me. It’s called Portugal dos Pequenitos (Portugal of the Little Ones). It is a cross between a theme park and a museum.

There are tiny versions of palaces, castles, monuments and homes. Some of the monuments in the park are traditional buildings or art that you’d find around the world. African statues, Asian palaces, etc. But they aren’t there because someone was trying to copy Disneyland. They are there as reminders of all the lands that the Portuguese explored and conquered.

Mundo dos Pequenos in Coimbra, Portugal

Mundo dos Pequenitos in Coimbra, Portugal

Coimbra002-light

Mundo dos Pequenitos
in Coimbra, Portugal

At the entrance to the park there is a map of the world, with the routes of all the Portuguese explorers… Magellan, Henry the Navigator, Vasco de Gama, and others. Above it there is a phrase. It reads, “And if there were more world, we would go there.” I was in such awe of those men and that phrase. The only reason they hadn’t done/seen more of the world was because they’d seen all of it. I believe it is the ultimate embodiment of “Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.”

That phrase has affected me profoundly. Over the years it became my goal in life, to keep seeing and exploring the world until I was “done”. Until there was no world left to explore.

On a subtler note, this little theme park gave me my first taste of Africa. Later on, in Lisbon, I’d discover Moroccan art, which would become a lifelong favorite.

Tribal Dance Necklace Click here to view on my Etsy Shop

Tribal Dance Necklace
Click here to view on my Etsy Shop

Though it certainly wasn’t Disneyland, Portugal dos Pequenitos taught me that It’s A Small World After All, and just like those explorers, all I had to do was… Go there!

P.S. I’m not done writing about Portugal, but I’ll leave it for another day. Meanwhile, feel free to sing a happy tune. 😀

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Cobblestone Alleys and ‘Big Sis’ Adventures with Portuguese Teens

Hostel Balcony Terrace

Hostel Balcony Terrace

After my accidental trip to Paris, and my cultural immersion on a train where I was forced to speak only French, I ended up at Portugal dos Pequenitos, a theme park/museum for kids (see previous post). I was on my first international journey and I was alone, something many people and most women would never think of doing. But little did I know that through my first solo adventure travels, I would discover a land forgotten by time, and develop a way of travel that would follow me the rest of my life.

Washing along the river Tagus

Washing along the river Tagus

Being in the city of Coimbra was like stepping back in time. Paris is very old-school architecturally, but  the high-speed trains, metro, fashion industry, and proliferation of technology, are constant reminders of the modern age. In Coimbra, many of the streets were still cobblestone, and life moved slower. While walking along the river, I discovered a field with a horse, and a woman washing clothes in the river!

coimbra hostel outside

Coimbra Youth Hostel – Old-Quarter Architecture

Have I mentioned that I learned to speak Portuguese by listening to music? My brother brought Brazilian music home once, when I was a teen, and I found it fascinating. It was like Spanish, but it rolled off the tongue full of “shhhz and zehhhs”, which were terribly sensual. I played that record many times and learned all the lyrics by heart. I figured I could understand about 80% of it. When I got to college I found some dictionaries and books to study it on my own, but I’d never studied it formally, or spoken a word of it to a real Portuguese or Brazilian person. And now here I was, smack in the middle of Portugal, flying by the seat of my pants because few people spoke English and I would have to communicate with them one way or another.

Mundo dos Pequenitos

Mundo dos Pequenitos – Coimbra, Portugal

My first youth hostel ever was in Coimbra. I was out of college and didn’t consider myself “youth”, but people were very friendly and patient with my Portuguese. I met a group of teens on a field trip and they invited me to join them at a bar that evening. I know it might seem weird to hang with teens, but I’d spent my day at a mini-version of Disneyland, so I guess I was working my way to adult company little by little.

Teens on holiday in Coimbra
Additionally, my 25hr train trip from Paris with an older woman who spoke nothing but French as my only company, had taught me that keeping to myself was boring, and I had to be open to new people and opportunities as they arose, in order to have a life filled with adventure and fun. So there I was, being a “big sister” type to the teens. I no longer recall if they were actually drinking alcohol (rules on drinking are different in Europe), or if it was a juice bar of some sort, but there was dancing and much merriment. And I even met a few folks my own age, which was great.

“When traveling alone, you can keep silent and be incredibly bored. Or you can open your mouth at the risk of making a fool of yourself, and you’ll probably have a great time and make friends.” — From My Own Rules of Travel

Coimbra Youth Hostel

Coimbra Youth Hostel

As far as hostels go, I’d learn later that Coimbra’s would be one of my favorites. It was sparse and functional, but bright very cheerful… like sleeping in an Ikea that’s totally old-world on the outside. The beds were comfy and the wooden floors were beautiful, and you could sit on a patio that overlooks the rooftops and cobblestone streets below. It is sheer bliss for a traveler that wants to enjoy architecture and culture, while being frugal with their travel budget.

I left Coimbra with fond memories. By getting out of my comfort zone, I discovered that I was comfortable with young and old people. Whether I roamed quiet cobblestone streets or sat in a busy youth hostel, I could make a social network for myself out of whoever I met. Being a solo traveler is not about being alone, it is about being open to adventure wherever you find it. And if you travel solo, adventure is everywhere!

Renaissance Rose on Copper, click to view on Etsy

Renaissance Rose on Copper, $35
Click here to view on Etsy

P.S. If you missed the beginning of the adventure, see my first post, My Accidental Journey to Paris, Portugal and Beyond … It’s A Small World After All

Stay tuned for my next installment of adventures as I make my way to Lisbon.

ArtsyGenius travels the world in search of beauty, and brings back a tiny piece of it for making jewelry. Here is one of our items inspired by world travels…

Sing on Saturday – Legendary Fela Kuti and His Legacy

Sing on Saturday brings you a song or two from around the world every Saturday. Fela Kuti was a Nigerian musician, composer and human rights activist. He was the pioneer of Afrobeat, and a great showman, who has been called “the James Brown of Africa”. He contracted the AIDS virus and died in 1997, but his legacy lives on through the music of his sons Seun and Femi Kuti, and through the musical “Fela!”, inspired by his life and work.

Tribal Dance Necklace Click here to view on my Etsy Shop

Tribal Dance Necklace $35
Click here to view on Etsy Shop

ArtsyGenius travels the world in search of beauty, and brings back a tiny piece of it for making jewelry. Here is one of our items inspired by travels…

For more on Fela Kuti, visit http://www.fela.net

For more on Seun Kuti, visit http://www.seunkuti.com

For more on Femi Kuti, visit http://www.femikuti.tv

Fela

Fela Kuti

Seun Kuti

Femi Kuti

Sing on Saturday – Happy and Soulful African Acoustics

Sing on Saturday brings you a song or two from around the world every Saturday. Blk Sonshine is the result of two “Black Sons” coming together to shine. Malawian-born Masauko Chipembere and South-African Neo Muyanga perform acoustic jazz that is infectiously happy and soulfully inspiring.

Handpainted Butterfly

Handpainted Butterfly – Inspired by the beauty of the Amazons

ArtsyGenius travels the world in search of beauty, and brings back a tiny piece of it for making jewelry. Here is one of our items inspired by travels…

Blk Sonshine

Blk Sonshine

For more on Blk Sonshine, visit blksonshine.wordpress.com
You can also view their FB page at
www.facebook.com/blksonshinemusic

Why Make Art?

Every artist faces challenges in his/her path. When the economy is in crisis, the struggle gets even harder because consumers have less disposable income to spend on the art we make. Additionally, artists face much criticism of both their artwork and their lifestyle.

If you are struggling with handling critiques of your art, we hope this article from Metalsmithing Poodle will be useful to you.

Why Make Art?.

As for surviving the turndown in the economy as an artist, we suggest this article

Get a job

Sing on Saturday – German Jazz and Australian-Celtic Fusion

Sing on Saturday brings you a song or two from around the world every Saturday. Today we have two songs with more fusion than a nuclear explosion. First we have Mo’ Horizons, two DJs from Germany, putting a Brazilian twist on Ray Charles’ classic, “Hit the Road Jack”. Next we have lively danceable jazz fused with Australian Aboriginal didgeridoo by the 1980s band Outback, playing “Dance the Devil Away”.

Handpainted Butterfly

Handpainted Butterfly – Inspired by the beauty of the Amazons

ArtsyGenius travels the world in search of beauty, and brings back a tiny piece of it for making jewelry. Here is one of our items inspired by travels…

The band Outback was started by Martin Craddick, from the UK, and Graham Wiggins (an American whose mother is Australian). After the band broke up, Martin Craddick went on to start the band Baka Beyond, which fuses African and Celtic music. Graham Wiggins founded the band Dr. Didg, which fuses electronic techniques and the didgeridoo.

Baka Beyond

Baka Beyond

 

 

Baka Beyond describe themselves as an “Original Afro-Celtic danceband
inspired by the music of the rain forest”
For more on Baka Beyond visit http://www.bakabeyond.net/

dr didg

Dr. Didg

For more on Dr. Didg, visit http://www.drdidg.com/

mohorizons

Mo’ Horizons

For more on Mo’ Horizons, visit their page on Facebook

Sing on Saturday – Songs from Brazil and Argentina

Sing on Saturday brings you a song or two from around the world every Saturday. Today Natalia Oreiro, sings a foot-stomping tune about Candomble culture. Then Luciana Mello delights us with beautiful, melodic Samba, for which her native Brazil is famous.

Handpainted Butterfly

Handpainted Butterfly – Inspired by the beauty of the Amazons

ArtsyGenius travels the world in search of beauty, and brings back a tiny piece of it for making jewelry. Here is one of our items inspired by travels…

For more on Natalia Oreiro, visit http://www.nataliaoreiro.com

For more on Luciana Mello, visit http://www.lucianamello.com.br

LucianaMello

Luciana Mello

Natalia Oreiro

Natalia Oreiro